Benson engine

That's interesting that you have found that acetone removes powder coating.  I haven't found that to be the case at all.  At least, not after it's baked, that is!  Before it's baked on, that's a whole different story 

Sorry to hear you're having a hard time with your powder coating.  I use Eastwood's pre-powder coating cleaner and that has seemed to make my powder coating go pretty well.  I have also used acetone to clean parts before coating, but I generally follow it up with the (nasty smelling) cleaner that they sell.  I just make sure I have good ventilation, and wear a respirator!

What coating did you use to prevent tarnishing on your brass?  I've used a clear coat on some brass.  I think that has held up pretty well, at least for a few years.  Don't know that I have 9 years on it yet.

Kim

Powder coating the flywheel didn't seem reasonable, so I went to Lowes to get some color-matched paint.  The technology they use is pretty remarkable.  I took the base as a sample, and got a half pint of latex paint for $7.

The photo shows the flywheel with a piece of powder-coated brass for comparison.  I also tried to see if I could use a hypodermic needle to apply very small amounts of touch-up paint to where the powder failed to adhere.  I couldn't get the paint to suck in, but putting some into the barrel I could get very tiny drops out the tip of the needle.

The acetone seems to remove the powder coat with some rubbing before it cures completely, but after several days it doesn't work that well.

I've now painted most of the parts and can attempt reassembly.  I still need to paint the bearing caps, so today I applied some quick heat with a torch, and was able to remove the oil caps (which I don't want to paint).

I acquired a walnut display base from Amazon.  It attaches to the oval sub base with some 1/4-20 screws.  I couldn't my set of countersinks, so I used a 3/4" endmill.

With the bottom portion of the engine assembled, I applied touch-up paint with a syringe to cover any exposed aluminum and called it a day.

It's going to look great on that wooden plinth 

Latex paint on a model, seriously?
What ever works for you I guess.

Quote from: Dave OttoLatex paint on a model, seriously?
What ever works for you I guess.

I think you hit the nail on the head.  While applying tiny amounts of the paint to cover spots where the powder didn't stick seems fine to me, painting an entire part anew is not the way to go.  My attempt with the entablature was not pretty.  If I'd used an airbrush I might have gotten away with it.  I removed the paint fairly easily by heating it with a propane torch, but the original underlying black powder coat was still present.  I experimented with the powder-coated brass plate I'd done as an experiment, and while the green pigment burned away, the resin still sticks firmly to the metal.  And since the resin isn't conductive (tested that), I can't powder coat on top of it.

An internet query shows two ways to remove the coating:  abrasive blasting or chemical stripper.  I found a stripper designed for powder and ordered a gallon via Amazon.  It's called Strip Paint 9900.  I should get it on Friday, so we'll see.

I will have a fiber laser engraver that I've bought from China, but it will take some time to arrive.  It should also be able to remove power once I learn how to use it.

The professional powder coaters that I have dealt with over the years always grit blast before coating. I would think that blasting would give more predictable results and uniform finish.
In a recent Blondie Hacks video she was using Acetone to strip the cured powder.

I have been using KG Gun Kote on some recent projects and really happy with the results. I did purchase a nice Grex air brush to apply it.

Dave

I don't have any blasting gear, but that sounds like it would be better.