Jasonb

if you turn some 1/16" spigots on the end of the bar for the bosses and put 1/16" holes in the flat stock that will locate them while soldering. I'd leave the bosses a bit long at this stage particularly the short ones. For the weighshaft have a long spigot to locate a "washer" on the other side of the flat bar.

hold by the boss in the lathe chuck and put the hole through which will remove the spigots.

Then clamp down to the mill table to bring the bosses to length.

Finally filing buttons or rotary table to round off the ends of the flat bar.

To me the clamps were not ideal

The rear one has the stud at the packer end of the clamp not near enough to the work so most of the force is going into the packer.

The left one is making contact with it's side not the end so will easily twist.

Right not too bad but can't really se it fully.

You need a traveling tool kit and a small restoration project to pass away those lonely evenings in the hotel.

It was Ricky who was saying between rod and crosshead.

As I said in that post your packer to extend the guides would have the least effect on other parts.

Same here. Packing between piston rod and cross head will not alter how far the cross head comes out, it will only move the piston up in the cylinder.

Options are, the last would not affect the current movement range of the piston and be the only item that has no knock on affect that would need other parts altering too.

- Shorten columns
- Raise Bearing pedestals
- Extend guides

Sit down with a bit of paper and lay out the heights from bed to crankshaft and then to underside cylinder. Then use two coloured pens to add drawing dims and those measured off your finished parts and compare where the two place the guide. I's say it is somewhere in the two height options for base types.

Adding up some lengths, I think you should be seeing 0.109" or 7/64 of crosshead below the trunk guide for the longer 5/8" stroke version.

Check that you have not used steel base dimensions for oen part and cast base for another as that would account for 1/8" of extra stick out.

Does the engine turn over at the moment? If so what are the clearances like for the piston at each end of travel as dropping the trunk guides down could see the piston hit the top cylinder covers

For a job like that where you are just reducing dia prior to threading rather than use tailstock support you can just expose the rod in stages so you are only turning a shortish piece each time, say 8-10mm in the case of your 4mm material. Any slight difference in cut will not show once you have cut the thread.

Here you do, the top left was 4mm dia and 40mm stick out. The one on the right 3mm dia but I did use tailstock support for that.

All done with DCGT 0702020, about 900-1000rpm from 303 stainless.

Just something like these in the attached image which will be easy to adjust.

They take the place of the pairs of locknuts and there is no need to thread the rod.

It will depend on how much room you have in the valve chest.

As the pip looks conical I thought the tool was high, a low tool usually leaves a more cylindrical pip.

Though as the cut was so poor it could just be the work deflecting and riding up on the blunt insert.

I'll post a photo later of a bit of stainless I turned yesterday, 4mm dia so similar to your 5/32" and 40mm stickout.

Desoldering is unlikely to work as the top of the valve cavity will not be sealed as it looks like the boss goes right through.

For minimal disturbance of the original you could make two small collars with grub screws that go either side of the valve, the existing hole looks like it may have enough play to allow the valve to seat on its own once the existing screw is removed, if not it may need elongating slightly.

Another more fiddly option to adjust would be to thread the valve rod and use a pair of locknuts either side but the collars would be my choice.

Use the **GT ones made for non ferrous.

The pip on the end of the work suggests you may be a little over ctr height which won't be helping. The effects of this get worse as diameter gets smaller

Also try to use 303 stainless as it is the free machining one

We generally don't use the three jewelry grades for model work but by way of comparisson here are the prices for Easy (50ft coil of 0.020") Can't compare your price without knowing the diameter of the wire you use.

https://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Easy-Silver-Solder-Wire-0.50mm-Fully-Annealed,-30g-Reels,-100-Recycled-Silver-prcode-HTB-050

It is a bit more expensive than our typical 55% Silver solder in 1.5mm sticks as the Easy had more like 65% silver content.

Where it starts to cost is buying short lengths. The 55% can be had in a similar wire diameter and you might pay £12/m which makes it very expensive compared to thet 16m coil from cooksons

For those in the UK it is worth shopping around. CuP want £20 a piece for 1.5mm x 500mm 55%, Cooksons are asking just over £15 each for 600mm lengths which works out at £12.50 for the same size as CuP.

It quite possibly states braze for steel components and silver solder for brass & Bronze components. Braze is cheaper but with it's higher melting point there is a risk of distorting or even melting small non ferrous parts so using silver solder for those is less risky.

If cost is an issue you can come down in the silver percentage to say 30% which will still have the strength and does not need too much more heat than the more costly common 55% solder. I don't think it is really worth it unless you are using lots of solder, the lower melting point of the 55% and ease of flow outweigh the cost difference.

They don't scratch the paint off that way round.

Very much like you find on the 2" x 1" Stuarts