I’ve made the slide valves and rods 😁 all looks good 👍
I’ve also ordered materials for valve forks and various nuts and glands .. I’m not sure how to make the Stevensons reverse gear various arms with bushes on them as I haven’t made a reverse engine to date !
I thought of making the flat part of the arms first and silver soldering the bushes on but keeping them un-drilled and over lengthwise for final machining once the soldering is completed, I have got a small rotary table (Proxxon) but it’s not really strong for removing bulk especially in steel !
Cheers R
Team ricky
Full Member · Joined May 2024 · Last active 2d ago
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All posts- In topic · 3d ago
- In topic · 4d agoYes entirely my my misunderstanding lol 😂
Sorry Crubey
Next job onto the slide valves and valve rods today
Cheers R - In topic · 5d agoThis was using the cast base measurements as my crank bearing blocks follow the drawing for cast base too….
So the Columns are correct at 3 3/32 for a cast base
The main crank bearing C/L is sport on for a cast base
And the trunk guide stack is correct as per drawing
The con rods are spot on as per drawing
The hole position through the cross head is spot on as per drawing
I’m stumped but left thinking the cross heads too long towards the crankshaft,
Just checked and the cross head over all is 1.2.mm too long
Honestly it probably is most of the cause and I’ll take 1.2 off and call it ! - In topic · 5d agoSo I’ve drawn up a quick front view,
And added the drawing dimensions in decimals
Calculated the gap expectations between the bottom of the trunk and base plate bearing pads, There are no other variables effecting this gap..
Came up with 1.4217”
My engine measured 1.4315”
- In topic · 5d agoAh sorry crubey , yes we were on the same page lowering the cross head guide / trunk!
I thought the suggestion was between the cross head / piston rod my bad !
Thanks for the suggestions Jason I probably will lower the trunk and as you say create a drawing to work out what the problem is and where it lies ..
Cheers R

